Category: RV

Understanding RV Weigh Station Rules

If you’re a new RVer heading out in your travel trailer, fifth wheel, or motorhome, you’ve probably wondered: Do RVs need to stop at weigh stations? The answer isn’t entirely straightforward—it depends on the state you’re traveling through and its specific laws.

After diving into this topic, the general answer is typically no for most RVers. However, understanding state-specific regulations can help you avoid confusion and make your travels smoother. Let’s break down this often-confusing topic so you can hit the road confidently.

Are RV Weigh Station Laws Consistent?

The rules for weigh stations vary by state, and the AAA Digest of Motor Laws offers some guidance. While many states have laws in place, most don’t strictly enforce them for RVs, especially if your rig isn’t exceeding heavy weight limits.

Here’s an important rule of thumb: If your Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is under 10,000 pounds, you’re generally exempt from stopping at weigh stations in the United States.

For clarity:

• GCWR refers to the maximum allowed weight of your vehicle, including passengers, cargo, and anything being towed (like your RV).
• For example, if your tow vehicle’s GCWR is 15,000 pounds and it weighs 6,800 pounds (including passengers and cargo), you can tow up to an 8,200-pound RV fully loaded.

However, if your GCWR exceeds 10,000 pounds, your situation becomes more complex. Nearly half the states in the U.S. have specific laws requiring a stop at weigh stations for RVs over this limit.

State-Specific Weigh Station Guidelines

Some states enforce weigh station stops based on specific weight thresholds or officer discretion. Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Colorado and Oregon: Require vehicles exceeding 26,000 pounds to stop.
• Kansas, Maine, Mississippi, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Utah, West Virginia, Wyoming: No explicit weight limits for RVs, but random checks may occur at weigh stations.
• Arkansas, Georgia, Louisiana, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Nevada, New Jersey, Wisconsin: Require RVs or combinations (e.g., tow vehicles with trailers) exceeding 10,000 pounds to stop.
• Pennsylvania: Laws mandate inspections for any “large” recreational vehicle, though the definition of “large” is vague.
• South Dakota, Virginia, and Washington: Require trucks exceeding 8,000–10,000 pounds to stop, regardless of whether they’re commercial vehicles or not.

What About Canada?

In Canada, laws can vary by province, but officers often have the authority to pull over any vehicle for a weigh station check. Nova Scotia, for example, requires all vehicles over 4,500 kilograms (9,920 pounds) to stop or comply with signage.

Bottom Line: When Should RVs Stop at Weigh Stations?

To simplify your travels:

• If your GCWR is under 10,000 pounds, you’re likely in the clear.
• Check state or provincial laws before your trip to avoid surprises.
• Be mindful of weigh station signage and officer instructions—sound judgment always applies!

By understanding these rules and planning ahead, you can navigate weigh stations confidently and keep your RV adventures stress-free.

Motorhomes and travel trailers are two popular types of RVs, each with unique advantages and drawbacks. Having had extensive experience with both, I want to shed some light on their differences and similarities. Whether you’re a seasoned RV enthusiast or a newbie, understanding the pros and cons of each can help you make an informed decision.

Let’s dive in and explore what makes motorhomes and travel trailers stand out in the world of RVs!

1. Price

When it comes to price, motorhomes are generally more expensive than travel trailers. Entry-level motorhomes start at around $50,000, with used models still commanding a high price. I recommend motorhomes for seasoned RV veterans who frequently travel and have experience with RV life.

For those just starting out with RV travel, a travel trailer is a more affordable option. New travel trailers typically range from $20,000 to $30,000, and you can find used ones for even less. This price difference is significant and makes travel trailers an attractive option for beginners. I’ll discuss additional reasons for this preference later.

If you are an experienced traveler or plan to live in your RV, a motorhome might be the better fit. Motorhomes can offer a full home experience on the road, with some luxurious models available. However, if you prefer simplicity and want to keep costs low, a travel trailer is a great choice. It provides the essentials and is ideal for those who enjoy frequent camping outside of their RV.

2. Fuel Efficiency

Motorhomes typically run on diesel engines. In a Class C motorhome, you can expect around 15 miles per gallon (mpg), which is decent but not exceptional. Despite this, it’s often more efficient than towing a trailer, which I’ll explain in more detail shortly.

One advantage of Class C motorhomes is that most of them fit at regular gas stations, allowing you to refuel just like a standard vehicle—convenient and straightforward.

In contrast, towing a trailer usually results in lower fuel efficiency, averaging around 10 mpg. To pull a trailer efficiently, you generally need a diesel truck, though the exact requirements depend on the size and weight of the trailer.

However, a significant benefit of towing a trailer is the ability to unhitch and drive your tow vehicle separately. This allows for much better fuel efficiency—often 30-40+ mpg—when you’re not hauling the trailer.

3. Insurance

In general, the larger the RV, the higher the cost. This principle holds true: a motorhome will almost always be more expensive than a travel trailer.

For those new to RVing, it’s wise to start with a travel trailer rather than a motorhome, particularly if you’re considering a large motorhome. The initial investment in a motorhome can be significant and may be more suited to experienced RVers.

Additionally, it’s important to shop around and compare insurance options. Different companies offer varying rates and coverage, so doing thorough research will help you find the best deal for your needs.

4. Depreciation and Resale Value

Depreciation is an inevitable part of owning any vehicle, including motorhomes and travel trailers. It’s rare to sell a vehicle for more than you paid for it, and both types of RVs will lose value over time.

However, travel trailers generally depreciate more slowly compared to motorhomes. Since travel trailers don’t have engines, they tend to retain their value better. Despite this, both types of RVs lose value due to newer models and the passage of time, with various features influencing their worth.

Consider how important depreciation is to you. If you’re particularly budget-conscious, this factor might be significant. For others, it may not be a major concern.

Ultimately, it’s important to do thorough research and assess what works best for your situation and preferences.

5. Maintenance Costs

Maintenance costs can be a significant factor when choosing between a motorhome and a travel trailer. Generally, maintaining a motorhome is more expensive than maintaining a travel trailer.

This is because a motorhome combines both the RV and vehicle components. You’ll need to manage repairs and upkeep for the engine and vehicle systems, as well as the RV’s internal systems, like plumbing and electrical components. As a result, annual maintenance costs for a motorhome can run into the thousands.

In contrast, a travel trailer primarily involves RV maintenance. Without an engine or vehicle systems to maintain, these costs are typically lower, often about half of what you’d spend on a motorhome.

In essence, motorhomes require more investment in maintenance due to their dual nature—both RV and vehicle—while travel trailers focus solely on the RV aspect.

6. Amount of Use

How frequently you plan to use your RV is a crucial factor in deciding between a motorhome and a travel trailer. Consider your travel habits and how you intend to utilize your RV.

If you’re an avid traveler who enjoys long-distance journeys, a Class C motorhome or another type of motorhome might be the right choice. Motorhomes offer a comfortable, home-like environment and are designed for extended stays on the road. You can travel across the country without needing to find accommodations, allowing for greater flexibility and convenience.

On the other hand, if you’re more of a weekend adventurer or only plan to use your RV for a few weeks each year, a travel trailer could be a better fit. It’s easier to store and maintain, and you won’t feel as bad about it sitting idle in your driveway.

For those who want to offset costs while their RV is not in use, consider renting it out. Several platforms, like RVShare, provide options for renting your RV or finding rentals. RVShare is known for its thorough vetting process, including DMV checks, and has a strong reputation. According to their website, they are “the largest and most trusted RV rental marketplace in the world,” making it a reliable choice for generating passive income from your RV.

Exploring these options can help you make the most of your RV investment, whether you’re on the road or at home.

7. Maneuverability and Parking

A Class C motorhome excels in maneuverability, especially in tight spaces. Its smaller size compared to a trailer makes it easier to navigate and turn around, making it ideal for urban areas and compact parking situations. For example, parking a Class C motorhome in a standard parking spot is straightforward, enhancing your ability to explore and immerse yourself in any location without the hassle of finding a parking spot far from your destination.

In contrast, trailers require more space for parking and can be cumbersome in tight areas. Imagine arriving in a popular area like the Bay Area, only to spend 10 minutes or more searching for a suitable parking spot for your trailer. The need for ample parking space can detract from your overall experience and limit your spontaneity.

Additionally, it’s important to remember that towing a trailer requires a truck equipped for hitching. While smaller trailers might be towed by smaller vehicles, a full-sized truck is generally recommended for larger travel trailers to ensure safe and effective towing. Always consider the size and weight of your trailer in relation to the towing vehicle to ensure a smooth experience.

8. Luxury and Comfort While Driving

One of the standout features of a motorhome is the unparalleled comfort it offers while traveling. Imagine the luxury of getting up to grab a snack, watch a movie, or even work on a project while someone else handles the driving. It’s a convenience that transforms long drives into a more enjoyable experience. The best part? You don’t need to stop; everyone can stay entertained and comfortable while the journey continues.

In contrast, with a travel trailer, hopping out to access the living space while in transit isn’t an option. You’ll need to have your snacks and entertainment within reach in the car, and space is more limited. Plus, there’s always the uncertainty of whether everything is staying put while you drive. Items can shift or spill, and without the ability to monitor it directly, you might not notice problems until it’s too late.

The Class C motorhome, in particular, handles like a larger car, making it easier to drive comfortably. When deciding between a motorhome and a trailer, consider your comfort level with driving either. Do you find navigating a large, bulky vehicle intimidating, or do you prefer the stability and control of a trailer that requires more vigilance while driving?

Regardless of your choice, both options will be larger than a typical car. If possible, try out a friend’s RV or trailer to gauge your comfort level. For a Class C motorhome, you can generally drive at or near the speed limit with confidence, whereas towing a trailer might make you more cautious about exceeding 65 mph. Ultimately, choose what suits your driving style and comfort best.

9. How Much Space?

One of the key factors to consider is how much space you have to move around comfortably. Let’s break down what each option offers.

A Class C motorhome is a solid choice for many, but it’s best suited for up to two people. The sleeping area typically accommodates only two comfortably. If you’re traveling with a family or need more room, a travel trailer might be a better fit.

For long trips, make sure you’re comfortable with the space available. If you feel cramped, it could detract from your enjoyment of the journey.

On the other hand, travel trailers generally provide more space than a Class C motorhome. While larger models can be quite spacious, within a reasonable budget, a travel trailer is likely to offer better overall space.

Before making a purchase, I recommend touring various RVs to find the one that best suits your needs. Seeing different models in person will help you make a more informed decision and ensure you choose the right fit for your travels.

10. What is Your Style of Adventure?

When you reach your destination, do you prefer to dive into exploration immediately, or do you enjoy staying put and relaxing? This preference is crucial when deciding between a motorhome and a travel trailer.

Arriving at your campsite is a great feeling—you finally get to stretch your legs and enjoy a break from driving. Once you’re set up, you have to decide whether you want to explore or stay put.

Setting up a motorhome is straightforward: park, level the vehicle, hook up utilities, and you’re ready to go. It’s ideal if you plan to stay in one place for a while. However, if you want to venture out, you’ll need to go through the setup process again to ensure everything is secure. Some might find this repetitive.

On the other hand, with a travel trailer, you’ll need to handle additional steps like unhooking chains, anti-sway bars, and the hitch. Once set up, you probably won’t want to move it for a few days, making it a more stationary base. This setup is great if you plan to explore the area by car, as it allows you to use your vehicle for local trips while saving on fuel.

If you don’t mind the process of setting up and tearing down with a motorhome, then the convenience of a travel trailer might not be a major concern for you.

RVs are large and generally heavy, but if you ever go RVing in high winds, you might wonder if a camper or RV can tip over. The truth is, it can happen in certain scenarios. The good news is that there are steps you can take to prevent it.

Why a Camper or RV Can Tip Over in Various Situations

The size of RVs can be misleading. Today’s average trailer weighs around 5,200 pounds, with many RVs reaching up to 7,705 pounds. However, it’s not just the weight that prevents dangerous rollovers. How you drive, and occasionally where you go, are the primary factors that can cause a camper or RV to tip over.

How Do Campers and RVs Roll Over?

There are several ways a camper or RV can tip over. Let’s talk about each one.

Fishtailing

Fishtailing, jackknifing, or trailer sway—whatever the name, it’s terrifying if it happens to you.

The side-to-side movement known as fishtailing occurs when a camper trailer begins moving independently of the towing vehicle. The hitch must be located near the rear axle for trailer swaying to occur. Usually, the hitch keeps the gravity of a towing vehicle and trailer evenly matched. But when gravity is disrupted, the trailer sways.

Fishtailing happens in other situations too. For instance, if the weight distribution of a trailer is off, it can jackknife. This is why it’s important to spread cargo weight evenly across the entirety of your camper, not just in one or two corners.

Another cause of trailer fishtailing happens when too much weight is placed near the trailer hitch. This is where tongue weight comes into play. That’s the amount of downward force the hitch can handle before fishtailing kicks in. Usually, it should equal between nine and 15 percent of the total weight of the trailer.

Failing to properly correct trailer fishtailing can lead to horrible RV accidents.

Acceleration

RV speed limits exist for a reason. Some states allow more generous speeds. For instance, Alabama lets you drive 70 MPH while towing a trailer. Maine, Louisiana, Colorado, and some other states let you go even faster at 75 MPH. Nevada is by far the fastest with a limit of 80 MPH.

Just because you can go that fast while towing a trailer doesn’t mean you should.

You have to be ready to stop at a moment’s notice. Not only does your towing vehicle have to roll to a complete stop, but so does your trailer. This takes longer than you’re accustomed to when you have thousands of pounds behind your towing vehicle.

I always recommend driving within the speed limit. There’s no need to push the outer limits in a towing setup. It can be easy to start accumulating speed since you’re driving your familiar truck or SUV, but use caution. Making fast turns and other maneuvers can cause a camper or RV to tip over on the highway.

High Winds and Bad Weather

Finally, high winds and bad weather can sometimes tip RVs and trailers. One 2009 study found that it’s possible to add extra force (like 3,440 pounds extra) just by a generated crosswind of 35 miles per hour. Yikes!

Bad weather isn’t the only cause of heavy crosswinds. If a large semi-truck or other commercial vehicle rushes by you on the highway, they can also create a nasty crosswind force.

Generally, winds need to exceed 70 MPH for you to be at risk of tipping. Those winds are considered “strong gale” forces strong enough to pull roof shingles off and destroy RVs and buildings. This rarely causes trailers to tip over because most RV owners are smart enough to avoid driving in high winds.

What If Your RV Rolls Over?

If your RV is about to roll over, you will likely know. The trailer may groan, creak, or make other obvious noises indicating that a rollover is imminent. If you’re inside, you may feel it pulling towards the ground. If your trailer tips over, immediately exit your tow vehicle. The rollover could spark an electrical fire or cause a trailer explosion. Move away and get to safety.

How to Avoid a Trailer Rollover

1. Use Stabilizers and Jacks: When your camper is parked, use stabilizers, jacks, and wheel chocks to keep it upright.
2. Park Strategically: If possible, park your camper near a hillside or a wall to shield it from strong winds.
3. Avoid Hills: Don’t park on a hill. Gravity doesn’t favor keeping heavy things propped up on inclines. If your hitch were to fail, your camper would be in serious trouble.
4. Retract Slide-Outs and Awnings: Ensure all slide-outs are retracted when facing high winds. This stabilizes your vehicle. The same goes for your awning—retract it in high winds.
5. Drive with the Wind: Try to drive with the wind, not against it. This not only helps with stability but also improves fuel efficiency.
6. Assess the Need to Drive: Consider if driving in strong winds is necessary. If it’s not essential, avoid putting yourself in potential danger.
7. Ensure Hitch Compatibility: Make sure you have a compatible hitch for your camper. Check all lugs, bolts, and parts to ensure there are no loose or missing screws. Lubricate the hitch if needed.
8. Drive Carefully: Maintain a reasonable speed limit and take turns and corners slowly.
9. Match Large Vehicle Pace: When driving beside a large vehicle, try to match their pace without exceeding the speed limit. This can help you avoid potentially dangerous crosswinds.

Imagine a car that fits the description of a lemon: old, worn-out, with a faded paint job and tires barely holding together. Starting it is a struggle, requiring multiple attempts before the engine finally turns over, each successful start feeling like a minor miracle.

When it comes to shopping for RVs, especially new ones, you might assume there are no lemons in the bunch. After all, these vehicles are expected to meet rigorous factory standards and exceed them. Right?

Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. Just like cars and trucks, RVs can also turn out to be lemons. While there are lemon laws that protect consumers from defective vehicles like cars and trucks, do these laws extend to RVs?

In this article, I’ll provide answers to that question and offer valuable tips for savvy shopping, ensuring you don’t end up with a lemon of your own!

Understanding Lemon Laws

To start off, let’s define what a lemon law is. Lemon laws are legal protections primarily applicable in the United States. If you reside outside the US or purchase your RV in another country, these laws may not be applicable to you.

Lemon laws are designed to safeguard consumers from persistent issues with vehicle performance and quality. They cover various types of vehicles, including motorcycles, SUVs, trucks, and cars. Each state in the US has its own version of the lemon law, which you can find detailed on the DMV’s website. While I won’t delve into every state’s specifics, it’s important to note that there are notable variations from state to state.

For example, let’s consider Kansas’ lemon law. Their criteria for defining a lemon are stringent: you must have owned the vehicle for at least a year, and while it’s preferable if it’s still under warranty, it’s not mandatory. The vehicle must have undergone unsuccessful repair attempts ranging from four to 10 times. Alternatively, if the vehicle is out of service for more than a month due to issues, it qualifies as a lemon.

In contrast, New Jersey’s lemon law differs significantly. It doesn’t require the vehicle to be brand new; even leased vehicles can qualify. In this state, a vehicle can be deemed a lemon if it fails to be repaired successfully three times, or if it’s out of service for a cumulative total of 20 days and has been driven for 24,000 miles or owned for two years.

These examples highlight the variations from state to state. It’s advisable to familiarize yourself with the lemon law in your state and any states you frequently travel to. Knowledge of these laws empowers consumers to protect their rights effectively.

Understanding RV Lemon Laws

I previously mentioned how lemon laws apply to various vehicles, including cars, motorcycles, and others on wheels. But what about RVs? Do they fall under the jurisdiction of state-specific lemon laws as discussed earlier?

The answer is: it depends! Similar to how each state has its own version of the lemon law for traditional vehicles, some states also provide lemon law coverage for RVs, while others do not. National coverage for RVs under lemon laws is not a given.

For instance, Florida offers lemon law protection for RVs. Specific rules are outlined in the Consumer Guide to the Florida Lemon Law, which you should receive upon purchasing your RV in Florida. However, certain living facilities within the RV, such as windows (excluding front passenger and driver’s windows and the windshield), exterior components, side entrance door, electrical systems, generator, furnace, roof air conditioner, plumbing system, and flooring, are not covered. If these components malfunction, you’re responsible for repairs.

Under Florida’s lemon law, if you’ve owned your RV for at least 24 months and unsuccessfully attempted to repair it three times, you may be eligible for protection. In such cases, liability falls on the manufacturer, and you can request warranty coverage for the RV issues in writing.

Texas is another state that extends lemon law coverage to RVs, including travel trailers registered and titled in the state. To qualify, you must have made unsuccessful repair attempts before your vehicle reaches 24,000 miles or two years of age. Alternatively, if you’ve tried to repair the same issue unsuccessfully four times, you may also be protected under Texas lemon law.

Additionally, Texas lemon law may apply if your RV has been out of service for 30 consecutive days and has not yet reached 24,000 miles or two years of ownership. There’s also a serious safety hazard provision, where the issue must pose a risk of explosions or fires if not addressed, ideally before 24,000 miles or within two years of ownership.

As demonstrated by the differences between Florida and Texas lemon laws, there are significant variations among states. It’s important to research your home state’s lemon law provisions to understand what is covered. Remember, while some states provide lemon law protections for RVs, it’s not guaranteed everywhere, so it’s crucial to be informed.

Why Careful Shopping is Essential

Regardless of which state you reside in, if your state has an RV lemon law, it typically applies only to new vehicles. Purchasing a used motorhome means you won’t benefit from lemon law protections. Whether you recently bought a 2017 RV in 2018, once a vehicle is used, the lemon law no longer applies—it’s that straightforward.

Opting for a used RV often stems from the desire to save money. However, without a warranty or lemon law coverage, any issues that arise will require you to cover repair costs out of pocket.

This isn’t to discourage purchasing a used RV entirely. For many first-time motorhome buyers, buying used is a prudent financial decision. Saving money while still acquiring a quality vehicle is the main advantage.

When considering a used RV, it’s crucial to personally inspect the vehicle rather than relying solely on online images or videos. Take the time to thoroughly examine it.

Additionally, don’t skip the test drive. Some issues only become apparent when you’re driving the RV yourself.

Remember, with a used RV, any repair costs fall squarely on your shoulders—neither the seller nor the manufacturer is obligated to cover them. By conducting thorough due diligence, you can minimize the chances of encountering issues with your used RV.

Lastly, don’t hesitate to walk away if the used RV exhibits significant issues like water damage, structural problems with the walls or roof, or major electrical and plumbing issues. While politeness is important, safeguarding yourself from a bad deal should take precedence.

Understanding and Maximizing Your Warranty Coverage

When purchasing a new RV, it typically comes with a warranty, although the length and coverage can vary based on the manufacturer. While there may be an additional cost for the warranty, I strongly advise against forgoing it entirely.

Warranties, whether they span four years or a lifetime, are essential for new RV owners. I understand that after investing in your new vehicle, the thought of paying extra for a warranty might seem excessive. However, encountering issues with your RV within the first few years of ownership can quickly change that perspective. Having repairs partially or fully covered can provide significant financial relief. Just as you’re recovering from the substantial initial purchase cost of your RV, unexpected repair bills can strain your budget.

There are two primary types of basic warranties to consider. The first is a listed component contract, covering every part and component that the manufacturer would pay for in case of malfunction or breakage. The second is an exclusionary contract, often referred to as a bumper-to-bumper contract, which specifies what is not covered.

For those interested in extended protection beyond the original warranty period, extended RV warranties are available. These third-party warranties typically extend coverage well beyond the initial few years, offering peace of mind against RV parts defects.

It’s worth noting that extended warranties are usually administered through third-party providers, often affiliated with your insurance provider. While it’s uncommon for RV manufacturers to offer extended coverage directly, it doesn’t hurt to inquire.

Like any warranty, filing a claim under an extended warranty requires submitting a claim and providing proof of maintenance and supporting documentation. Additionally, be aware that extended warranties may not cover 100% of expenses all the time, as deductibles may apply.

Understanding your warranty options and maximizing their benefits can significantly mitigate potential financial burdens associated with RV ownership.

Is It Normal for a New RV to Have Problems?

It’s not uncommon to purchase a brand-new RV, hit the road, and encounter issues within the first month or two. Perhaps it’s a minor inconvenience like a clogged pipe or something more concerning such as electrical or transmission issues.

Before you start feeling swindled after spending a substantial amount on your new vehicle, take a moment to understand a harsh reality: new RVs often come with a range of problems. Many new RV owners can attest to this, including Jim from Camper Report, who has experienced multiple repair visits with his new RV.

This isn’t to say you’ve been duped. Unfortunately, it’s a widespread issue. Most RVs, regardless of brand or price point, leave the factory with some level of imperfections. It’s a result of inconsistent quality control practices across the industry. Vehicles often pass through quality checks quickly, without thorough inspections for optimal performance and durability.

RV manufacturers acknowledge these challenges by offering extensive warranties, sometimes covering repairs for the vehicle’s lifetime. They understand the likelihood of initial issues and provide warranties to offset repair costs incurred by owners.

So, if your shiny new RV starts showing signs of trouble shortly after purchase, don’t blame yourself. It’s typically a manufacturing issue, and the manufacturer will often cover the costs of initial repairs under warranty. This is why it’s crucial to keep some extra funds handy even after buying a new RV—to address these early challenges swiftly and smoothly.

Conclusion

Lemon laws are widely recognized for providing protection against problematic vehicles like cars, trucks, and SUVs, ensuring that consumers aren’t burdened with excessive repairs.

However, when it comes to RVs, the landscape changes. Lemon laws specific to RVs are less common across states in the US, meaning your protection can vary significantly depending on where you reside. If your state doesn’t extend lemon law coverage to RVs, you assume full responsibility for any issues that arise.

Moreover, there’s no lemon law coverage for used RVs at all, underscoring the importance of thorough research and inspection when purchasing pre-owned vehicles. Even with new RVs, quality control issues are prevalent, making manufacturer warranties invaluable. Opting for a warranty can save you from unexpected repair costs during the initial years of ownership.

Armed with this knowledge, take proactive steps to ensure you don’t end up with a lemon. Whether buying new or used, diligent research and consideration of warranty options can safeguard your investment and enhance your RVing experience.

Enhance Your RV Kitchen Experience with These 8 Essential Appliances. From cooking to culinary creations, these must-have gadgets ensure delicious meals on the go. What’s more, they’re compact, lightweight, and portable, perfect for life on the move.

Great Meals Begin with these Eight Must-Have RV Kitchen Appliances

Traveling and living in an RV offer an exciting way to explore fascinating destinations. However, let’s acknowledge the reality: RVs come with limitations, such as space and weight restrictions. Trying to squeeze your beloved kitchen appliances from home into your RV kitchen isn’t practical or safe.

Still unsure about which RV kitchen gadgets to pack? Here’s my compilation of eight essential RV kitchen appliances guaranteed to simplify life on the road.

1. Immersion Blender: Your Multi-Functional Kitchen Companion

The immersion blender, also known as a hand blender, packs a powerful punch in a compact size. With its versatility and portability, it’s a must-have for any RV kitchen. Equipped with robust motors and whisk attachments, these blenders effortlessly dice, emulsify, and chop a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. From sauces simmering on the stove to refreshing smoothies, this single gadget replaces the need for bulky jar blenders and juicers, making meal preparation a breeze on the road.

2. Instant Pot Pressure Cooker: Your Ultimate RV Kitchen Assistant

RVing is all about outdoor adventures, not spending hours in the kitchen. Enter the Instant Pot, one of the most indispensable RV kitchen gadgets. With its versatility, it takes on the bulk of meal preparation tasks, from sautéing and steaming to cooking and warming a plethora of one-pot camping dishes. Acting as a multi-functional powerhouse, the Instant Pot performs tasks typically handled by slow cookers, rice cookers, pressure cookers, steamers, and standard cookers. Plus, its electric design allows you to set it and focus on fun outdoor activities while your meal cooks to perfection.

3. Stacking Cookware with Detachable Handles: Space-Saving RV Kitchen Innovation

While stackable cookware isn’t entirely novel, the inclusion of high-quality options with detachable handles brings a fresh perspective to RV kitchens. These innovative gadgets are a savvy addition to your rig, maximizing space for other essential kitchen items, such as food supplies.

The T-FAL cookware line offers a range of portable options featuring nonstick surfaces, perfect for effortless cleanup during your adventures in remote and picturesque locations, where water conservation is key. Say goodbye to cluttered cabinets and hello to efficient and compact cooking solutions.

4. Portable Induction Cooktops: Efficient Cooking Solutions for Your RV

For dry camping adventures, equipping your RV with a portable induction cooktop is a wise choice. These cooktops excel at quickly warming and cooking liquids and foods, ensuring efficient meal preparation wherever you roam.

Utilizing magnetic induction, these cooktops transfer heat directly to your cooking vessels, consuming up to 70% less energy compared to traditional electric and gas stoves. Additionally, induction cooktops eliminate open flames, offering safer and more precise heat regulation.

Their versatility extends to outdoor use, but before diving in, ensure compatibility with your cookware. Simply place a magnet on the cookware—if it sticks, you’re ready to cook up a storm with this essential RV kitchen gadget.

5. Clear, Square Food Storage Containers: Organization Essential for Your RV Kitchen

Say goodbye to cluttered cabinets by upgrading to a set of clear square food storage containers. Ditch the mismatched and awkwardly shaped containers and opt for uniformity and efficiency instead.

After returning from the grocery store, transfer items from their original packaging into these sleek containers. Their square and rectangular shapes perfectly utilize the space in RV kitchen cabinets, keeping your provisions neatly organized and easily accessible.

With everything neatly tucked away, you’ll find it a breeze to locate food items whenever hunger strikes during your adventures on the road.

6. Corelle Dinnerware: Lightweight and Durable Solution for Your RV Kitchen

When selecting must-have RV kitchen appliances and gadgets, space isn’t the only factor to consider. Bumpy roads and weight restrictions also influence your packing decisions. While traditional stone dinnerware may be aesthetically pleasing, it’s unlikely to withstand the rigors of highway travel and adds unnecessary weight to your RV.

Enter Corelle dishware: a lightweight, durable, and practical alternative. Designed to withstand bumps and jolts, Corelle dishes are not only sturdy but also easy to clean. Additionally, they are microwave-safe, offering versatility for meal preparation on the go. Say goodbye to the fragility of fine china and the waste of disposable plates—Corelle dinnerware is the ideal choice for your RV adventures.

7. Stove Top Cover: Maximize Counter Space in Your RV Kitchen

Counter space is a precious commodity in most average-sized RV kitchens. If your RV stove didn’t come equipped with a stove top cover, investing in this essential kitchen gadget is a game-changer.

Camco offers a universal cover made of durable 20-gauge steel, designed to protect and conceal burners when not in use. Simply fold it back when cooking, and it doubles as a convenient splash guard for the kitchen wall, ensuring a clean and clutter-free cooking environment in your RV.

8. Roll-Up Dish Drying Racks: Space-Saving Marvels for Your RV Kitchen

The roll-up dish drying rack stands out as one of the most ingenious RV kitchen gadgets of all time. Crafted from food-grade silicone, this non-slip wonder serves multiple purposes, making it a must-have for any RV kitchen.

Simply place it atop your sink for washing produce or drying dishes, maximizing limited counter space. Its heat-resistant design even allows you to place hot food items on its surface without worry. When not in use, conveniently roll it up for compact storage, ensuring a clutter-free environment in your RV kitchen.

Conclusion: Must-Have RV Kitchen Appliances

Your RV kitchen doesn’t have to rival a gourmet restaurant to whip up delicious meals on the road. The must-have RV kitchen gadgets we’ve covered here are far more than just cool additions to your galley—they’re essential tools that leverage technology and smart design to streamline meal preparation, allowing you to maximize your outdoor adventures. With these innovative appliances at your disposal, you can spend less time cooking and more time enjoying the great outdoors.

Ensuring the safety of RV tires isn’t left to chance. Have you recently shown your RV tires the attention they deserve? Let’s kick off with this vital guide on selecting and maintaining tires for trailers and motorhomes.

While these substantial rubber giants may surpass standard car tires in size, they’re equally prone to common issues. From underinflation to overinflation, low pressure, punctures, and external damage, motorhome and trailer tires face similar challenges.

Your Must-Have Handbook for RV Tire Safety

Replacing your RV’s tires can be a cumbersome task due to their considerable size, but it’s a responsibility that comes with being an RV owner. As this task typically involves elevating your RV on jacks, prioritizing your safety is paramount.

In this guide, I’ll detail the safe process of replacing your RV tires. Additionally, I’ll cover various aspects of tire safety, including tire inflation, maintaining proper tire pressure, preventing blowouts, and storing tires during the offseason.

Deciphering RV Tire Markings

When you inspect your RV’s tires, you’ll notice a series of alphanumeric characters adorning them. These characters may differ among the tires on your vehicle. But what do they signify? Is it worth understanding them or can they be disregarded?

Ignoring them is not advisable. These characters hold valuable insights into your tires. Let’s decode them now:

• B: Denotes belted bias construction, alongside D and R, which represent other tire casing construction types.
• DOT: The DOT number, an abbreviation for the U.S Department of Transportation serial number, typically comprises three or four digits. For tires manufactured post-2000, it’s four digits, indicating the specific week and year of production.
• H: Part of the maximum speed rating classification. Speed ratings range from A to G, with H onwards being the most common. For H-rated tires, the maximum speed is 130 miles per hour (MPH).
• P: Found on passenger tires, denoting PMetric rather than “passenger tire.”
• Q: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 100 MPH.
• S: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 112 MPH.
• T: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 118 MPH.
• U: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 124 MPH.
• V: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 149 MPH.
• W: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 168 MPH.
• Y: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 186 MPH.
• Z: Signifies a maximum speed rating of 187 MPH and higher.

Understanding 10-Ply RV Tires

Every RV tire comes with a specification known as a load range or ply rating, which for simplicity’s sake, we’ll refer to as the ply rating throughout this article.

So, what exactly is the ply rating? It indicates the limits on tire inflation concerning the maximum load of the vehicle. If the load surpasses the ply rating, the tires could potentially fail or burst.

Additionally, each RV tire has its own ply count. However, this ply count doesn’t directly influence the ply rating. This concept might seem a bit perplexing, but let’s delve deeper into it.

The Evolution of Tire Construction

In the past, tires were predominantly crafted from layers of cotton rather than rubber. During that era, the ply rating served as an indicator of tire strength, accounting for the total plies within the tire. However, times have changed, and this is no longer the case.

Today, the ply rating primarily correlates with the tire’s load capacity, as mentioned earlier. Moreover, modern tires are no longer composed of cotton. Just imagine if they were!

Despite advancements, remnants of old terminology persist. For example, considering what we now know about ply ratings, it might seem logical to assume that a 10-ply tire contains 10 plies. However, this isn’t always accurate.

Even though the most robust tires bear a 10-ply rating, they often comprise only a maximum of three plies, with the standard being two. Some tires may even have just one ply.

While opting for 10-ply tires is advisable due to their superior strength, ability to handle substantial loads, and capacity to withstand high pressures, it’s essential to understand that these tires do not necessarily contain 10 plies. This discrepancy reflects lingering terminology from the past, which doesn’t diminish the quality or durability of the tires but may mislead in terms of accuracy.

Inflating Your RV Tires: Exploring Your Options

When it comes to inflating your RV tires, you have two primary choices: the traditional air compressor or a nitrogen system. Let’s delve into both methods to understand them better.

Air Compressor Inflation: The Convenient Choice

Opting for an air compressor for tire inflation stands as the simplest and quickest solution, primarily because your vehicle likely already houses one. This eliminates the need to purchase a separate air compressor unless your current one malfunctions. How convenient!

However, convenience doesn’t always equate to the best option. While using an air compressor for tire inflation is feasible, it’s not without its drawbacks. The engine must remain running throughout the inflation process, which can take a considerable amount of time. Additionally, the emission of exhaust and the accompanying noise can be off-putting.

Furthermore, relying on air compressors may not always yield accurate tire pressure readings, as they can induce pressure fluctuations.

Nitrogen System Inflation: A Preferred Choice

For many RV owners, the allure of portable air inflation systems, such as nitrogen systems, is undeniable. These systems offer a range of sizes to suit various needs:

• The 88p compressor, capable of reaching 120 pounds per square inch (PSI) on 33-inch tires.
• The 300P compressor, designed to achieve pressures ranging from 90 to 150 PSI on tires measuring 34 inches and larger.
• For even greater capacity, there’s the option of a 400P nitrogen compressor.

Nitrogen compressors boast several advantages, including ease of use, quiet operation, and significantly reduced emissions compared to traditional air compressors.

Is It Safe to Use Nitrogen-Filled RV Tires?

If you’re concerned about nitrogen-filled RV tires, it’s likely because you’re thinking of nitrogen more as a chemical. After all, when in liquid form, nitrogen is a popular ingredient for vehicular coolant. In its gas form, though, nitrogen is a naturally-occurring substance. It has no smell or color.

You’ll find nitrogen in air. In fact, according to Popular Mechanics, air includes portions of argon and neon (noble gases), larger portions of carbon dioxide and water vapor, little oxygen (roughly 21 percent), and mostly nitrogen (78 percent).

Nitrogen System Inflation: A Preferred Choice

For many RV owners, the allure of portable air inflation systems, such as nitrogen systems, is undeniable. These systems offer a range of sizes to suit various needs:

• The 88p compressor, capable of reaching 120 pounds per square inch (PSI) on 33-inch tires.
• The 300P compressor, designed to achieve pressures ranging from 90 to 150 PSI on tires measuring 34 inches and larger.
• For even greater capacity, there’s the option of a 400P nitrogen compressor.

Nitrogen compressors boast several advantages, including ease of use, quiet operation, and significantly reduced emissions compared to traditional air compressors.

Testing RV Tire Pressure: A Step-by-Step Guide

Before proceeding, refer to your owner’s manual for guidance. This invaluable resource typically contains recommendations for maximum inflation pressure. If you’re unable to locate this information, consult your RV’s certification label. Alternatively, reach out to your RV manufacturer directly for clarification.

It’s essential to note that each tire may have a different maximum pressure, determined by its load capacity. Consequently, it’s crucial to rely on the information provided in your owner’s manual rather than making assumptions about the correct pressure.

Avoid Exceeding Manufacturer’s Recommended Inflation Pressure

It’s imperative not to exceed the maximum inflation pressure specified by your manufacturer. Overinflating the tires can lead to a host of problems. An overinflated tire is prone to accelerated wear compared to others. Moreover, excessive pressure on the tread and sidewall reduces traction. In the worst-case scenario, overinflation can result in tire explosion.

Avoiding Low Tire Pressure: Importance and Procedure

Maintaining proper tire pressure is crucial, whether it’s intentional or accidental. Low tire pressure can lead to various issues, including tread separation, wear and tear, and the risk of tire explosion. This is primarily due to increased friction when underinflated tires rub against driving surfaces.

To check tire pressure accurately, a basic air gauge is all you need. For the most accurate reading, ensure your tires have been inactive and cooled down to their ambient temperature. If you’ve driven more than a mile in your RV, allow the tires to cool before conducting the pressure check. Otherwise, the heat from warm tires can elevate the PSI reading, resulting in an inaccurate measurement by 10 to 15 PSI.

While it’s possible to adjust for warm tire conditions by subtracting 10 or 15 PSI from the reading, this method is not entirely accurate. It’s best to wait for the tires to cool down before checking the pressure.

It’s advisable to test your RV tire pressure monthly and begin each day on the road with a pressure check. Additionally, before and after the offseason, it’s essential to retest the tire pressure to ensure optimal safety and performance.

Step-by-Step Guide: Changing RV Tires

Eventually, your current RV tires will reach the end of their lifespan due to wear and tear or misuse. If it’s the former, you may need new tires every four or five years.

RV Tire Change Tools:

• Wrench
• RV tire(s)
• RV jacks (two)

Procedure:

1. Park your RV in an open area where you have full access to all sides of the vehicle.
2. Engage the emergency brake.
3. Position the first jack against the front wheel, ensuring it’s securely against the RV’s frame.
4. Repeat the process for one back tire.
5. Lift the rear tire off the ground using the jack, ensuring it presses against the RV’s frame.
6. Proceed to lift the front tire, pumping it up three times beyond the rear tire’s height.
7. Repeat the pumping process for the back tire, lifting it up three pumps.
8. Continue pumping both tires until they’re raised sufficiently. If you can rotate the tires without them touching the ground, they’re high enough.
9. Starting with the first tire, use the wrench to remove the lug nuts. Keep the lug nuts; you’ll need them later.
10. Replace the old tire with the new one, securing it in place with the old tire’s lug nuts using the wrench.
11. Repeat the process for the remaining tires as needed.

Carefully follow these steps when replacing your tires, exercising caution throughout the process.

Preventing RV Tire Blowouts

Two major causes of RV tire blowouts are underinflation and overinflation, as discussed earlier. Regularly checking your tire pressure when the tires are cold ensures optimal pressure before every journey.

However, maintaining healthy tires on the road involves more than just monitoring inflation. If your tires are aging and haven’t been inspected recently, there’s a risk of potential issues. It’s advisable to have your tires inspected every 90 days to ensure they’re fit for both short-term and long-term driving.

Considerations for RV Tire Health

The weight placed on your tires plays a significant role in their well-being. Overloading your RV can exceed the tires’ capacity, leading to potential collapse or blowouts. Additionally, improper weight distribution can put excessive strain on specific tires, increasing the risk of failure.

Furthermore, worn or old tire treads are a red flag for imminent blowouts. To assess tire tread wear, you can perform a simple coin test. Insert a quarter or penny into the tire grooves; ideally, the coin should stand upright. If it doesn’t, it indicates that the treads are too worn down, necessitating replacement before further driving.

Top Tips for Winter RV Tire Storage

During the winterization process, it’s advisable to remove your RV tires and store them properly for the offseason.

However, you can’t store them just anywhere. Opt for an indoor environment devoid of air currents and direct sunlight. Ensure the space is dry, cool, and clean, free from grease, oil, or moisture.

While most tires can endure exposure to water, ozone, and sunlight, prolonged exposure can degrade the rubber and shorten their lifespan. Storing your tires in an indoor area as described above helps prolong their durability and lifespan.

Maintaining Optimal Tire Condition

To ensure your tires remain in top condition, consider the following tips:

• Keep snow, sand, and reflective surfaces away from your tires to prevent accelerated wear.
• Avoid exposing your tires to heat-absorbent surfaces like asphalt, as they can cause damage.
• Ensure the storage space for your tires is free from ozone generators, such as electric motors, which can degrade rubber.
• In warmer winter climates, maintain a tire pressure reading of 15 PSI to account for potential pressure loss during colder weather.
• If possible, remove the rims from the tires. Otherwise, check the tire pressure and adjust it to 10 PSI.
• Store each tire in a polyethylene bag to protect against ozone and oxygen damage. Ensure the bags are not entirely translucent.
• When stacking multiple tires, place them evenly on top of each other to prevent uneven pressure distribution.

Conclusion: Prioritizing RV Tire Safety

In all RV maintenance endeavors, safety should always take precedence. Utilizing nitrogen instead of oxygen for tire inflation, conducting frequent tire pressure tests, and understanding the factors that can lead to tire blowouts are essential steps in preventing sudden tire failures.

When the time comes to change your tires, employing jacks to raise your RV to the appropriate height is relatively straightforward, but caution must always be exercised to avoid injury.

Lastly, storing your tires correctly ensures their reliability when spring arrives.

Wishing you safe travels and smooth journeys ahead!

When contemplating the purchase of a Class A RV, numerous factors come into play. Among these, the length of the vehicle holds significant importance. So, how long is a Class A RV? These models vary in size, ranging from as short as 22 feet to as lengthy as 50 feet.

Understanding Class A RVs

Curious about Class A RVs? These vehicles epitomize luxury, boasting lavish amenities and typically constructed on large bus or truck chassis. Their distinctive large, boxy shape makes them easily identifiable. Class A RVs are often preferred by full-timers due to their spacious interiors, eliminating the need for a separate vehicle often associated with travel trailers and fifth wheels.

Why I Prefer Class A RVs

When my husband and I embarked on our journey to full-time RV living, we meticulously evaluated countless models, ranging from fifth wheels to travel trailers, Class C’s, and Class A’s. Throughout our search, one type consistently stood out: Class A RVs. The abundant space they offered, coupled with the convenience of not needing a truck for towing, appealed to us greatly.

Among the Class A models we explored, the Thor Motor Coach Vegas 25.2 captured our hearts. Its sleek design and spacious interior, despite being only 24 feet long, impressed us. The comfortable Lazy Boy-like seats for the driver and passenger, which could swivel for additional indoor seating, further sealed the deal for us.

One standout feature of Class A RVs for me is their expansive window shields, providing panoramic views of the surroundings. As pet owners traveling with senior dogs, we appreciated the ability for them to rest comfortably on the bed behind us during our travels. The overall layout exuded a homely and comfortable vibe, with some RVs even boasting electric or propane fireplaces for added coziness.

Moreover, storage space is crucial for full-timers, extended trips, large families, or those with plenty of recreational gear. In this aspect, Class A RVs outshine other models, offering ample storage solutions to accommodate all our needs.

Where Will You Park Your RV?

When you’re marveling at that stunning 40-foot Winnebago Forza at the dealership, it’s easy to get swept away by its allure and top-notch features. But once you drive it off the lot, reality sets in: where will you park it?

Chances are, your 20-foot driveway won’t accommodate it. Will you shell out for a storage space in addition to your monthly finance payments? Or opt to store it under an overhang at home? Keep in mind, the longer the RV, the pricier the overhang you’ll need to invest in. Every aspect, from storage to maintenance, becomes more expensive with a larger RV.

What’s Your Goal?

Your RV choice should align with your goals and desires. If you crave luxury and amenities, a spacious 40-foot Class A might be the perfect fit. On the other hand, if simplicity is more your style, a 25-foot model with basic features could suffice.

Consider your family size as well. For larger families, a bigger rig offers privacy and space, especially after a day of driving. In such cases, the convenience of a second bathroom outweighs the maintenance effort of managing extra tanks. So, define your goals clearly to find the RV that best suits your needs.

Will Your RV Fit into National Parks?

If you’re considering visiting National Parks with your family, it’s essential to check size restrictions. Many parks impose length limits on RVs, both for the entire park and individual campsites. To ensure compatibility with most National Parks, aim for an RV length under 35 feet.

Class A RV Lengths: 22 to 49 Feet

When considering Class A RVs, it’s essential to note that advertised lengths may differ slightly from the actual measurements. To ensure accuracy, bring a tape measure when shopping for a specific length. Here’s a list of popular Class A brands and their lengths in feet.

Class A RVs Over 22 Feet:

• 22 feet:
  • 2019 Jayco Precept Prestige
  • 2018 Jayco Redhawk 22J
• 24 feet:
  • 2018 Thor Vegas 24.1
  • 2019 Forest River RV Georgetown 3 Series 24W3
  • 2019 Nexus Maybach 32M
• 25 feet:
  • 2018 Thor Vegas 25.6
  • 2019 Thor Motor Coach Axis 25.6
• 26 feet:
  • 2016 Fleetwood Flair
  • 2016 Trek 26HMD
  • 2016 Jayco Alante 26Y
• 27 feet:
  • 2016 Winnebago Brave 27B
  • 2016 Winnebago Itasca Sunstar LX 27N
  • 2016 Coachmen Pursuit 27KB
• 28 feet:
  • 2018 Forest River FR3 28DS
  • 2014 Fleetwood Storm 28MS
  • 2019 Entegra Coach Vision 26X
• 29 feet:
  • 2013 Thor Motor Coach ACE 27.1
  • 2015 Fleetwood RV Storm 28 MS
  • 2018 Jayco Alante 29S

Class A RVs Over 30 Feet:

• 30 feet:
  • 2018 Holiday Rambler Admiral XE 30U
  • 2018 Winnebago Sunstar 29VE
  • 2019 Thor Motor Coach ACE 29.3
• 31 feet:
  • 2019 Newmar Bay Star 3124
  • 2018 Forest River Georgetown 31B3
  • 2018 Coachmen Mirada 31FW
• 32 feet:
  • 2018 Winnebago Intent 31P
  • 2017 Winnebago Vista 31B
  • 2018 Coachmen Pursuit 31SB
• 33 feet:
  • 2018 Forest River Berkshire 34QS
  • 2018 Thor Palazzo 37.4
  • 2017 Tiffin Motorhomes Phaeton 40AH
• 34 feet:
  • 2017 Tiffin Motorhomes Allegro Open Road 32SA
  • 2018 Newmar Ventana 3412
  • 2018 Forrest River FR3 32DS
• 35 feet:
  • 2019 Forest River Georgetown 5 Series GT5 31L5
  • 2018 Newmar Baystar 3401
  • 2016 Forest River Georgetown 329DS
• 36 feet:
  • 2018 Thor Aria 3601
  • 2019 Coachmen Mirada 35BH
  • 2014 Itasca Sunova 35G
• 37 feet:
  • 2018 Newmar Canyon Star 3710
  • 2016 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36DBT
  • 2018 Winnebago Forza 36G
• 38 feet:
  • 2017 Forest River Berkshire Cummins ISB 340HP
  • 2019 Forest River RV Georgetown 5 Series 36B5
  • 2018 Tiffin Allegro 36UA
• 39 feet:
  • 2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 38DBT
  • 2015 Thor Motor Coach Outlaw M-37MD
  • 2018 American Coach American Revolution LE 39B 450-HP

Class A RVs Over 40 Feet:

• 40 feet:
  • 2018 Thor Venetian S40
  • 2017 Tiffin Motorhomes Phaeton 40 AH
  • 2017 Newmar Dutch Star 4018
• 41 feet:
  • 2017 Sportscoach 407FW
  • 2014 Fleetwood Discovery 40G
  • 2013 Winnebago Journey 40U
• 42 feet:
  • 2013 Entegra Coach Aspire 42DLQ
  • 2018 Entegra Coach Anthem 42RBQ
  • 2015 American Coach Tradition 42G
• 43 feet:
  • 2018 Newmar Dutch Star 4369
  • 2014 Forest River Charleston 430BH
  • 2013 Entegra Coach Aspire 42DEQ
• 44 feet:
  • 2013 Fleetwood Providence 42P
  • 2013 Fleetwood Discovery LXE 44B
  • 2018 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 44H
• 45 feet:
  • 2016 Newmar Essex 4553
  • 2016 Thor Motor Coach Tuscany 44MT
  • 2016 Winnebago Grand Tour 45RL
• 46 feet:
  • 2019 Entegra Anthem 44F
  • 2011 Newmar Essex 4524
• 49 feet:
  • 2012 Fleetwood Providence 42M
  • 2017 Entegra Coach 44

Conclusion

In summary, Class A RVs come in a range of sizes to suit various travel needs and storage options. The length of your vehicle should align with your travel plans and storage accommodations. Consider these factors carefully to ensure you choose the right size Class A RV for your adventures.

If you were to delve into insulation research, you’d mostly encounter solutions tailored for RVs. However, many of these same solutions can effectively enhance the insulation of your trailer.

It’s time for trailer owners to receive the recognition they deserve. In this article, I’m compiling five fantastic methods to regulate temperature inside your trailer using insulation. While not exclusively designed for trailers, most of these methods can be adapted for them.

Before we dive in, there are two important points to note. Firstly, it’s not advisable to spend winters camping in a trailer, even with the insulation methods I recommend. Trailers often suffer from air leaks and typically have minimal insulation, usually fiberglass. These factors can pose challenges.

Secondly, let’s briefly discuss the concept of R-value, as it will be referenced frequently. The R-value indicates the efficiency of insulation in maintaining a consistent temperature. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation performs. While R-values vary depending on the climate zones across the country for household insulation, for mobile vehicles like trailers, the specifics of zone differences are less critical. Just remember, higher R-values equate to better insulation.

Without further delay, here are five effective ways to insulate your trailer.

1. Upgrade Your Windows

Many trailers come equipped with single-pane windows, notorious for their poor insulation capabilities. These thin and inexpensive windows allow cold or warm air to easily infiltrate your trailer, leaving you uncomfortable.

If you’re considering a change, you have two options. The first, and often optimal, choice is to replace the windows entirely. However, this may come with drawbacks such as cost and potential warranty issues.

Understanding these concerns, I’ll also outline how to insulate single-pane windows. While not as effective as window replacement, these steps can still make a noticeable difference in your trailer’s insulation.

Replacing the Windows

Step 1: Measure the size of your trailer windows accurately to ensure you order the correct replacements. Trailer windows come in various types, including awning windows, vertical sliders, horizontal sliders, and jalousie windows. Each type offers different features and benefits.

• Awning Windows: Featuring dual opening glass panes, awning windows are suitable for mid-sized trailers.
• Vertical Sliders: These tall windows open via a slide on tracks, providing ample ventilation.
• Horizontal Sliders: Similar to vertical sliders but open sideways, these windows are a space-saving option.
• Jalousie Windows: While offering great views, jalousie windows have poor sealing, making them a compromise in terms of insulation.

Step 2: Once you have the new window(s), uninstall the current ones by removing the window frame. For windows with metal or vinyl siding, you may need to remove the siding first.

Step 3: Scrape away any remaining caulk or putty from the window area.

Step 4: Install the new window, ensuring a snug fit, and use fresh sealant to secure it in place. Consider purchasing new screws and siding for better insulation performance.

Insulating the Existing Windows

If replacing your windows isn’t feasible, or you prefer to improve the insulation of your current windows, here are some alternative methods to consider:

• Apply Plastic Insulating Film: Invest in plastic insulating film, an affordable option to enhance window insulation. Simply cover both sides of the window with the film and use the provided double-sided adhesive tape to secure it in place. Then, use a blow dryer to create an airtight seal across the film. While not the most aesthetically pleasing solution, it effectively improves insulation.
• Wrap the Windows in Bubble Wrap: For a budget-friendly option, consider wrapping your windows in bubble wrap. Begin by spritzing water onto both the inside and outside of the window to provide moisture for the bubble wrap to adhere to. While this method may not win any design awards, it offers a practical way to enhance insulation.

2. Reseal Doors

Now that your windows are taken care of, it’s time to tackle another area where major cold/heat loss occurs: your doors.

If your trailer doors don’t have weatherstripping, that’s the first thing you can change. You can order weatherstripping online or pick it up at any home improvement store. If you own a house, then you’ve seen weatherstripping in action. This strip of bulky fabric sticks beneath your front door to prevent drafty air from disrupting the coolness or warmth of the interior.

A door snake serves the same purpose as weatherstripping and can be made as easily as taking a dish towel, rolling it, and putting under your door. Again, does this look good? Nope, but if you’re inside for the night, who cares?

The last method is more time-intensive, as it’s a DIY job. It involves reapplying a fresh layer of caulk around your trailer doors. You should do this at least annually (or about every two years) anyway, so it’s good to get into the habit now. If you notice any holes, cracks, or small spots, add extra caulk to them. That should cut down on draftiness.

3. Seal Your Vents

If you’ve already insulated your windows and doors but still feel drafts in your trailer, it’s possible you’ve overlooked your vents. Situated higher up in your vehicle, vents are often forgotten but play a crucial role in regulating humidity and moisture.

While vents are essential for maintaining comfort and preventing mold and mildew, they can also allow unwanted hot or cold air to infiltrate your trailer. The solution? Invest in a vent cushion!

The Camco vent cushion stands out as a top choice, boasting a five-star rating on Amazon and earning the coveted Amazon Choice designation. Priced at $14.99, it’s a budget-friendly option for enhancing insulation in your trailer. Designed for RV and trailer vents measuring at least 14 inches, you can customize it to fit smaller vents by cutting or compressing it.

You have the option to choose between a cushion with or without a reflective surface. While the non-reflective cushion is slightly more expensive, both options provide effective insulation. The reflective version offers additional UV protection.

Remember, it’s essential to remove the cushion before using your trailer’s vents. With its easy-to-use design, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

4. Skirt Your Trailer

Skirting is a technique more commonly associated with RVs than trailers. However, there’s no reason why you can’t skirt your trailer too. After all, the underside of your trailer is just as susceptible to temperature fluctuations from the outdoors as an RV’s.

But what exactly is skirting? It involves wrapping a layer of fabric around the bottom half of your vehicle, extending down to the ground. This “skirt” acts as a barrier, preventing excess cold or heat from entering underneath and into your trailer. Plus, it adds a touch of charm to your vehicle’s appearance.

While skirting is more prevalent among RV owners, it’s still possible to skirt your trailer. You may need to purchase an RV skirt and trim it down to fit your trailer’s dimensions.

RVSkirting.com offers specialized skirts designed specifically for fifth-wheel trailers. Alternatively, you can explore custom sizing options with them or other manufacturers.

Why Skirt Your Trailer? According to TripSavvy, skirting can effectively control interior temperatures, potentially reducing propane usage during cooler months. With less fuel needed to keep your vehicle warm, skirting offers both practical and economical benefits.

5. Reinforce Your Walls with Insulation

At the outset of this article, we discussed how most trailers come equipped with a thin, inadequate layer of fiberglass insulation on the walls. However, even with the implementation of other insulation tactics, you may still find yourself lacking in comfort.

Reinsulating your walls offers a comprehensive solution to enhance temperature control in your trailer. It’s worth noting that undertaking this task yourself may void any existing warranties, so it’s advisable to consult with your trailer manufacturer beforehand, especially if considering professional assistance.

Once you’ve addressed any warranty concerns, you’ll have several insulation materials to choose from:

• Spray Foam: Ideal for DIY projects, spray foam offers simplicity and effectiveness. With a relatively high R-value, spray foam expands from a canister or similar container upon application, resembling shaving cream. Once settled, it provides improved insulation for your walls.
• Rigid Foam: Another option is rigid foam, which can be customized to fit your needs by cutting it to size. This pink foam boasts a good R-value and requires industrial tape or caulk for attachment to the walls. Known for its strength, durability, and moisture-resistance, rigid foam offers effective insulation, albeit with a more challenging installation process compared to spray foam.
• Fiberglass Foam: If you prefer to augment your existing insulation rather than replace it entirely, fiberglass foam insulation is worth considering. While it offers a good R-value and effectively retains cool air during summer months, it’s important to note that fiberglass insulation may expand when warm and may need to be replaced every few years. Additionally, there’s a risk of mold growth if moisture penetrates the insulation. Regular inspections are crucial to detect any signs of mold early on.

As an RV owner, you’re likely aware that the freshwater holding tank supplies potable water. However, once this water is used for tasks like washing dishes or taking showers, it becomes less pristine and is directed to the graywater holding tank.

Conversely, what goes down the toilet finds its way to the blackwater holding tank. Given its contents, it’s no surprise that this tank tends to accumulate grime rapidly, making it the top priority for regular cleaning due to its unsanitary nature.

Now, let’s delve into the process of cleaning and unclogging your blackwater holding tank. This article will provide a comprehensive, step-by-step guide covering various scenarios of dealing with a backed-up tank. Additionally, we’ll explore the common causes of clogs and offer strategies to prevent them in the future.

Understanding the Causes of Blackwater Tank Clogs

To uncover the reasons behind blackwater tank clogs, it’s akin to investigating what leads to a toilet blockage.

Admittedly, the topic might not be the most pleasant, but it’s crucial to address.

Typically, two main factors contribute to the gunk buildup in your blackwater tank: human waste (yes, feces) and clumps of toilet paper.

In some newer, high-end blackwater holding tanks, you might find a system of sensors embedded within. Positioned vertically throughout the tank, these sensors monitor its filling levels. This enables you to receive timely alerts when the tank requires cleaning.

However, if these sensors encounter obstructions due to waste or toilet paper accumulation, they may provide inaccurate readings, causing unnecessary inconvenience.

Even without sensors, the accumulation of human waste and toilet paper remains a significant concern. The severity of the issue often remains unknown until the tank is inspected firsthand.

Step-by-Step Guide to Clearing a Clogged Blackwater Tank

Diagnosing the root cause of a clog is often the initial step in resolving issues with your blackwater tank. Without understanding the source of the problem, addressing it becomes challenging.

Now, while I may have drawn a comparison between your blackwater tank and a toilet earlier, unfortunately, grabbing a large plunger won’t solve the issue. As much as it would be convenient, there simply aren’t plungers big enough for this job. Apologies for the disappointment – maybe innovation will catch up someday.

You might have entertained a few DIY ideas to tackle the job, but let’s steer clear of methods that could potentially damage your blackwater tank or, worse, leave you covered in waste. For your safety and the preservation of your tank, AVOID the following approaches:

1. Using a pressure washer or power washer: Despite some suggestions from supposed RV “experts,” avoid the temptation to power-wash your blackwater tank. The high pressure could lead to tank breakage or cause harm to yourself. Not worth the risk!
2. Employing pressurized air: Any form of pressure should be avoided. Introducing pressurized air into the tank can exacerbate the problem by lodging waste in inaccessible areas and potentially damaging the tank.
3. Attempting to use a toilet snake: While useful for clearing household pipes, toilet snakes are ineffective for removing waste buildup in blackwater tanks. Save yourself the hassle and bypass this method altogether.

Now that we’ve ruled out what not to do, you’re probably wondering, “What’s the solution?” Let’s explore that next.

Step 1: Cleaning the Tank

A clean blackwater tank spells trouble-free travels. Therefore, the initial step in unclogging your blackwater tank is to give it a thorough cleaning. Before you proceed, make sure to avoid the ineffective methods outlined earlier.

What you can do is invest in a septic system powder treatment and administer it into the tank. Rid-X stands as a favored choice among RV and camper owners. You can conveniently purchase several months’ worth from Amazon. The pricing is as follows: $6.88 for a month’s supply, $13.88 for three months, and $73.66 for a year’s worth of Rid-X.

But why stock up? For optimal maintenance of your blackwater tank, regular use of Rid-X or your preferred product is advisable, even if the tank isn’t currently clogged. This preventive measure is likely to thwart future clogs (and fret not, as I’ll share more tips on this later).

For effective results, your blackwater tank should hold a minimum of 1,500 gallons to ensure a thorough clean with Rid-X. Each month’s supply typically comprises approximately 9.8 ounces of powder containing enzymes and natural bacteria. From grease and oils to proteins and yes, even toilet paper, Rid-X tackles it all.

To guarantee a pristine blackwater tank, adhere to the instructions provided on the Rid-X packaging or your chosen powder cleaner.

Step 2: Cleaning the Line

The line connecting your toilet to the blackwater tank is crucial in managing waste flow. Without regular cleaning, this line can develop stubborn blockages known as pyramid plugs, hindering the connection.

Wondering how these pyramid plugs form? Neglecting to maintain the blackwater tank is the primary culprit. However, if you’ve encountered pyramid plugs, there are two options to address the issue.

The first involves using an auger. Yes, it’s a form of toilet snake, but in this case, it’s suitable for the task as the line contains pipe. Opt for a hand-operated auger to minimize the risk of damaging the blackwater tank. Gently guide the auger down the pipe to break up the pyramid plugs. If possible, flush the remaining plugs away with a hose or a long spray wand.

Alternatively, if you prefer a less hands-on approach, consider adding water to the blackwater tank, filling it halfway, and mixing in liquid soap. Next, drive your RV or camper on rough terrain to agitate the water and dislodge any blockages. Allow the tank to sit for a few hours before flushing the line. With luck, this method should eliminate the pyramid plugs.

Step 3: Testing Tank Valves

With your blackwater tank and line now thoroughly cleaned, it’s time to troubleshoot potential issues. First on the list: checking your tank valves to ensure they’re properly open and functioning. While this may seem straightforward, oversights during vehicle setup are not uncommon. Have you confirmed if the sewer line is connected? Are all valves switched on?

If any oversight is detected, take a moment to double-check and rectify the situation. Sometimes, this simple step can resolve the issue, saving you both effort and expenses. If your blackwater tank remains clogged, don’t worry – there are still several troubleshooting options available.

Step 4: Experiment with Chemical Solutions

Nobody enjoys delving into their toilet, so if there’s a chemical solution that can tackle the task swiftly and effectively, it’s an appealing option, isn’t it? The sentiment applies to your blackwater tank as well. If you can avoid excessive manual labor, why subject yourself to the ordeal?

Chemical treatments are widely available, with a plethora of options saturating the market.

Step 5: Experiment with the Water Hose Method

While chemical treatments are typically effective, if you’re in a hurry or prefer to avoid chemicals altogether, there’s an alternative. The water hose method offers a chemical-free approach to eliminating odors and waste from your blackwater tank.

To employ this method, you’ll need:

• A drill
• A water hose
• A water piping connector, preferably at least five feet in length
• An RV sewer hose
• A clear hose connector

Begin by attaching the clear hose connector to the blackwater tank securely. It’s crucial that the hose is transparent so you can monitor the method’s progress.

Ensure the connector is firmly in place before using the drill to create a hole at the top. The hole should be large enough for the water line to pass through but not so large that leaks occur.

Once the drilling is complete, feed the five-foot water line through the connector and turn on the blackwater tank’s valve. This allows the water line to access the tank. Now, run water through the line.

Typically, water will begin flowing, but occasionally, the line may become backed up. In such cases, waste should start moving through the water line instead of water. Allow this process to continue until the interior of the blackwater tank is thoroughly cleaned.

Step 6: Consider the Ice Cube Method

If the idea of drilling seems like too much hassle (completely understandable), there’s still another option worth exploring: the ice cube method. While it might sound unconventional, it has proven effective for numerous RV and camper owners.

Here’s how it works: Pour water into your blackwater tank until it’s roughly one-third full. Then, fill the remaining space with ice. Yes, it might require a substantial amount of ice, so it’s wise to stock up beforehand.

As you drive your RV or camper around, the movement should help the ice dislodge stubborn waste and toilet paper that’s clinging to the walls of your blackwater tank. Afterward, simply drain the tank, and with any luck, it should be noticeably cleaner.

Step 7: Seek Professional Assistance

Introduction: If none of the aforementioned methods yield satisfactory results, your final recourse is to pull over and enlist the help of a professional repairperson. While this option may incur costs, it ensures that your blackwater tank is thoroughly cleaned of all waste and residue.

Tips for Preventing Future Clogs

Introduction: With your blackwater tank now clean and free of waste, it’s essential to implement preventive measures to maintain its cleanliness and functionality. Regular maintenance of your blackwater tank is an unavoidable aspect of RV or camper ownership, albeit a tedious one.

Here are some steps you can take to prevent future clogs and ensure your blackwater tank remains in optimal condition:

• Clean the tank frequently: Regular cleaning prevents the accumulation of gunk. If your blackwater tank has sensors, follow their recommendations for cleaning frequency. Otherwise, aim to clean the tank weekly or every few weeks. Don’t overlook maintenance of your graywater and freshwater tanks.
• Clean the sensors: Regularly clean the sensors to ensure accurate readings, preventing unnecessary tank cleanings.
• Use RV-specific chemicals: Only use chemicals and products designed for RV or camper toilets and blackwater tanks. Avoid using household drain cleaners, as they can degrade drain valve seals and impede waste breakdown.
• Empty the tank promptly: Avoid leaving the blackwater tank full for extended periods. After a road trip or during breaks, dump the tank at a designated dumping station, followed by the graywater tank.
• Opt for biodegradable toilet paper: Invest in biodegradable toilet paper designed for RVs and campers to prevent blockages in the tank and sensor malfunctions.
• Maintain a minimum level of water in the tank: Never leave the blackwater tank completely empty, as waste and solids may adhere to the tank’s bottom and walls, causing odors. Maintain the tank at least halfway full with water.
• Flush the toilet frequently: Flush the RV or camper toilet multiple times per use to ensure waste and toilet paper are adequately flushed away.

When the taste of your drinking water turns sour, it can sour your camping experience too. Follow these tips for cleaning and sanitizing RV water tanks to ensure your next trip is a delightful one.

Understanding the Causes of Unpleasant Taste and Odor in RV Water

Have you noticed a foul smell resembling rotten eggs emanating from your RV water? The culprit behind this issue is likely an algae bloom thriving within the tank. This not only affects the taste but also produces unpleasant odors in RV water. While some may consider algae merely a nuisance, it’s crucial to recognize its potential health implications. Harmful algae blooms in natural settings can pose risks to both pets and humans. Therefore, it’s imperative to understand the impact algae can have on your drinking water.

Recently, my family encountered the significance of maintaining clean and sanitized RV tanks. As we hurried to prepare for our upcoming camping trip, I contemplated postponing tank cleaning until after our return. However, a moment of curiosity prompted me to investigate potential health risks. To my alarm, the Center for Disease Control outlined a myriad of health issues associated with contaminated water, affecting both humans and pets alike. From abdominal pain to neurological complications and liver damage, the spectrum of possible ailments was alarming.

Understanding Algae Growth in RV Water Tanks

Sunlight is typically the primary catalyst for algae growth in outdoor environments. However, the interior of RV water tanks, often situated in dark areas, might seem immune to such growth. Surprisingly, even in the absence of sunlight, algae can flourish in the stagnant water within RV tanks. This unchecked growth not only affects the taste of drinking water but also necessitates regular cleaning and sanitization of RV water tanks. Neglecting this maintenance task can lead to unpleasant tasting water and potential health risks.

Delaying the cleaning and sanitization of your RV water tanks, as I did, can exacerbate the issue. While resorting to bottled water for drinking and cooking might seem like a quick fix, it fails to address the root cause of the problem. Moreover, this practice isn’t environmentally friendly. Additionally, inhaling water mist containing algae particles, especially during showering, can pose health concerns. Thus, prompt action to clean and sanitize RV water tanks is essential for ensuring safe and enjoyable travel experiences.

Steps for Cleaning and Sanitizing RV Water Tanks

Algae growth in RV water tanks can occur even before noticeable changes in taste or smell arise. In my experience, by the time I detected an issue, a small patch of green had already taken root in one corner of the tank. Recognizing the urgency, I embarked on the task of cleaning the tanks before our planned trip. Cleaning the RV fresh water tank becomes imperative to eradicate existing algae growth. Subsequently, sanitizing the RV tanks serves as a preventive measure against future algae proliferation.

Prioritize Cleaning Your RV Water Tank

When algae patches become visible on the inner surface of the tank, it’s crucial to prioritize disinfection before proceeding with sanitization. Utilize a long-handled soft-bristled brush or a gentle sponge for this task, provided you can access the affected areas. Avoid using steel brushes, as their bristles can scratch and damage the tank’s interior, exacerbating the problem.

Sanitizing Your RV Water Tank

Follow these steps to effectively sanitize your RV water tank:

1. Dilute Bleach: Add 3/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of water in the tank. Ensure the bleach is properly diluted with water before adding it to the tank.
2. Soak with Bleach Water: Allow the bleach water mixture to soak in the tank for at least two hours. During this time, ensure all water lines leading to the shower and sinks are filled with the bleach solution.
3. Flush Water Lines: After the soaking period, flush the water lines connected to the shower and sinks to ensure they are free from any remaining bleach solution.
4. Fill with Clean Water: Refill the tank with clean water. Flush the water lines once again to remove any remaining traces of bleach. Repeat this process until the bleach smell is no longer detectable.
5. Regular Maintenance: Make it a habit to routinely clean and sanitize your RV water tanks to prevent algae regrowth and ensure the continued safety of your water supply.

Vinegar and Apple Cider Vinegar: Effective for Disinfecting RV Water Tanks?

There’s a common belief that vinegar, including apple cider vinegar, is effective for cleaning bacteria and algae from water tanks, including those in RVs. However, vinegar, primarily used for removing calcium deposits from hot water heaters, isn’t suitable for cleaning and sanitizing RV water tanks. It lacks the necessary disinfectant properties to effectively eliminate bacteria and algae. Similarly, while apple cider vinegar has gained attention for its purported health benefits, such as weight loss and cholesterol reduction, it’s not capable of killing bacteria or algae in RV water tanks. Therefore, relying on vinegar or apple cider vinegar for tank sanitation may not yield the desired results.

Sanitizing Your RV Water Lines and Hoses

Ensuring the cleanliness of your RV water lines and hoses is equally important. Here’s what you need to do:

1. Disinfect Hoses: Don’t overlook your RV water hose. Submerge it in a bucket of bleach diluted with water for a couple of hours. After soaking, rinse the hoses thoroughly until the bleach odor dissipates. Remember to always dilute bleach with water and avoid using pure bleach.
2. Prevent Contamination: Take precautions to prevent the ends of your hoses from coming into contact with anything dirty or contaminated. Keep them covered with caps or link the ends together when not in use to maintain cleanliness and prevent potential contamination.

By sanitizing your RV water lines and hoses, you ensure that your water supply remains clean and safe for use during your travels.

Sanitizing Your RV Hot Water Heaters

Algae, surprisingly resilient, can thrive in temperatures reaching up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Despite the absence of sunlight, hot water heaters in RVs are not exempt from potential algae growth. Furthermore, hot water heaters can become breeding grounds for Legionella bacteria, which are known to cause Legionnaire’s disease, a severe form of pneumonia. These bacteria can persist even in temperatures as high as 122 degrees Fahrenheit (50 °C).

Given these risks, it’s prudent to sanitize your RV hot water heaters regularly. This should ideally be done every spring before embarking on camping trips or whenever you detect an odor while using warm water.

Steps for Sanitizing RV Hot Water Heaters

Before initiating the sanitization process for your RV hot water heater, ensure that the heater is turned off. It’s crucial never to attempt to empty a hot water tank under pressure or while it’s still hot. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

1. Open the Petcock: Locate the petcock, typically situated outside at the bottom of the hot water heater. Open it to facilitate draining. Additionally, open the plug at the top to promote thorough drainage.
2. Drain the Water: Once the water has fully drained, close both the plug and the petcock.
3. Add Sanitizer: Measure out ¾ cup of bleach or algaecide as directed and add it to the water in the clean water tank. Allow the hot water heater to refill.
4. Soak: Let the solution soak for a couple of hours to ensure thorough sanitization.
5. Flush and Refill: After the soaking period, run the water out of the heater and refill it. Repeat this process until any residual bleach smell in the drinking water disappears completely.

By following these steps, you can effectively sanitize your RV hot water heater, ensuring a clean and safe water supply for your travels.

Testing for Algae in RV Water Tanks

Identifying algae in your RV water tanks before it becomes visually apparent can help prevent potential contamination issues. While following simple steps for cleaning and sanitizing RV water tanks can effectively deter algae regrowth, some individuals may prefer the added assurance of water testing. Here’s how you can easily test for algae:

1. Use Algae Testing Products: Various RV products are available to detect algae in water, even before visible signs like green coloration appear. Consider using affordable algae testing kits like Walmart’s Insta Test 3 Plus, which retails for $8.95. These kits typically come with test strips that indicate the presence of algae in water.
2. Consider Algaecides: While bleach is a cost-effective solution for cleaning and sanitizing RV water tanks, it doesn’t provide insight into algae presence. Instead, opt for algaecides available at your RV supply store. These products contain copper, which effectively penetrates algae cells, inhibiting growth.
3. Follow Algaecide Instructions: Carefully follow the directions provided with the algaecide. Typically, several drops are required to treat several gallons of water. Depending on the amount of water being treated, it may take anywhere from 30 minutes to 24 hours for the water to be safe for drinking after applying the drops. Be cautious, as copper algaecides can be corrosive to certain materials like cotton if spilled.
4. Understanding Copper Use: It’s natural to be concerned about copper presence in RV water tanks. However, trace amounts of copper are a natural part of people’s diets. Many campers prefer copper algaecides over bleach due to copper’s natural properties. It’s worth noting that copper algaecides are widely used in drinking water systems worldwide.

By utilizing these methods, you can proactively test for and address algae presence in your RV water tanks, ensuring a clean and safe water supply for your travels.

Enhancing Water Quality with Water Filters

Inline water filters serve as effective tools in reducing the presence of bacteria and algae in RV water systems. While they may not eliminate all bacteria and algae, even a reduction in their numbers can significantly improve water quality.

There are two main types of water filters available: inline water filters and canister filters. Canister filters are typically recommended for full-time RVers.

When selecting an RV water filter, it’s essential to pay attention to its specifications. Some filters may not explicitly state whether they filter out calcium or bacteria. For optimal results, consider inline units that combine carbon filtration with sediment removal. These portable units conveniently attach to your water hose.

Canister filtration systems come in various configurations, including single, double, or triple canisters, and are installed directly into your RV’s plumbing system. Carbon filters with added KDF (Kinetic Degradation Fluxion) effectively remove algae, bacteria, and other impurities such as lead, mercury, iron, and chlorine. Additionally, silver nitrate is sometimes used to prevent bacteria growth within the filter itself.

It’s important to note that even the most effective RV water filters require periodic replacement. Be sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended replacement schedule. By investing in quality water filtration systems and maintaining them properly, you can ensure clean and safe water for your RV adventures.